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events / Kyoto

Saihōji Moss Temple

If you’ve ever dreamed of walking through a Studio Ghibli film but without the danger of accidentally angering a forest spirit, you need to go to Kyoto’s Saihō-ji, better known as the Moss Temple. This place is so covered in moss it feels like Mother Nature took up knitting and blanketed the whole garden in green velvet.

Now, this is not your average roll-up-in-flip-flops kind of temple. No, sir. To visit Saihō-ji, you need to make a reservation in advance. It is fancy moss. VIP moss. You can’t just show up and say “hey I heard you guys have cool greenery.” You apply by postcard, wait for your golden ticket to arrive, and then show up on time like it’s a mossy job interview.

Once you get in, you’re not immediately allowed to frolic in the garden. First, you’ll be invited to copy sutras. Yes, you, with the penmanship of a caffeinated squirrel, will sit quietly and trace Buddhist scriptures. It’s surprisingly calming, unless you’re the guy next to me who spent ten minutes erasing a single kanji with the intensity of a bomb defusal expert. You might also participate in a short chanting session. Whether or not you understand what you’re saying is beside the point. You’re bonding with the moss. Emotionally.

And then it happens. The moment they open the sliding doors and let you out into the garden. It’s like being hugged by the earth. There are over 120 types of moss in every imaginable shade of green. It’s squishy. It’s serene. It’s what dreams are made of. You’ll see people walking in silence, pointing at rocks like they’ve just discovered Atlantis. You’ll find yourself saying things like “This patch of moss really speaks to me” and genuinely meaning it.

The whole garden is designed in the shape of the kanji for heart, which explains why halfway through your stroll, you might get the urge to write poetry or buy a moss-themed tote bag. Don’t fight it. Embrace the moss.

Why should you go? Because it’s peaceful, weirdly emotional, and one of the most beautiful places in Japan. Also, you’ll have the bragging rights to say, “Oh, you’ve been to Kyoto? But did you see the moss?”

Bring socks, bring silence, and prepare to have your heart softly squished by fuzzy green glory.

Saihoji Kokedera
56 Matsuojingatanichō, Nishikyo Ward, Kyoto, 615-8286, Japan
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